
After
1450,
the
costume
world
suddenly
reversed
from
the
pointed
Gothic
look,
to
the
square
look
of
the
Renaissance.
People
were
ready
for
a
change
and
it
lead
to
a
new
era
for
women's
clothing.
The
renaissance
also
brought
about
new
patterns
and
ways
of
wearing
clothes.
Women
wore
a
square-necked
gown
with
the
bodice
laced
up
the
front
and
attached
to
the
gathered
skirt
at
the
hips;
the
front
of
the
skirt
was
often
open,
to
reveal
decorative
petticoats.
These,
together
with
a
preference
for
rich,
heavy
materials,
especially
velvet,
and
a
fad
for
profuse
slashing
and
puffing
of
the
under
material
seen
through
the
slash,
created
a
bulky
appearance.
Men's
costume
had
wide,
square
shoulders
with
puffed
sleeves,
padded
doublets,
bombasted
upperstocks,
or
trunk
hose,
short
gowns
(cloaks),
and
square-toed
shoes.
The
doublet,
now
sleeveless,
was
worn
over
the
shirt
(formerly
the
chemise)
and
under
the
jerkin.
The
Burgundian
fashion
of
wearing
hose
prevailed
for
men,
and
later
developed
into
stocking
trousers
over
time,
together
with
a
laced
doublet
and
a
voluminous
cape,
the
zimarra.
Hat
fashion
gained
significance
even
for
men.
As
for
men,
fabrics
became
richer
and
heavier,
while
less
of
it
was
put
into
trains
and
sleeves.
In
the
Elizabethan
era,
the
costume
was
stiffened,
and
the
appearance
was
less
bulky.
Both
men
and
women
wore
the
characteristic
shoulder
wings,
pointed
stomacher,
and
starched
ruff
and
cuffs
made
of
lace.
Materials
were
heavy
and
lustrous
and
considerable
ornamentation
was
used.
Men
wore
a
short
cape,
and
their
trunk
hose
were
unpadded,
longer,
and
generally
made
in
sections,
or
paned.
Women
wore
exaggerated
farthingales,
or
hoops.
Towards
the
end
of
the
century,
another
nation
took
over
as
a
fashion
leader:
Spain
had
become
a
booming
colonial
power
by
exploiting
the
riches
of
the
New
World.
However,
the
fame
of
Spanish
court
fashion
has
different
roots:
It
reflected
the
fact
that
Spain
was
the
centre
of
Catholic
pietism
(in
reference
to
Spanish
Inquisition)
by
the
use
of
black
and
dark
colours
and
exaggerated
stiffness.
Both
male
and
female
costume
was
rigid,
stuffed,
and
high-necked.